This Pattern is Posted at the Crochet Partners's Web Site with the Designer's Permission. See note below for our reprint policy.
This one fits a small size (Chest from 31" to 33", hips from 33" to 36") with notes for increasing the size.
Here's a picture of the Bikini top, size small. Model made by Shirley Guess 5/97 Image size:100K
I intend to wear the bikini top with shorts---so I really don't need to make the bottom. If you make the entire suit, please let us know. We'll replace our photo with your photos.
Editor Pattern Notes for Bikini Top
Substitute ch 3 for dc at beg of rnds. Sl st to top of first st or chain to close each rnd.
Motif Size with fingering weight thread: 3" and 1.75mm hook (Bates
US 4)
Motif Size with acrylic sport weight (like Lustersheen): 3 1/2" and B
hook
MATERIALS:
The original bikini used two colors: marine blue as main color and white as contrasting color.
1.1 oz of synthetic and somewhat elastic yarn (orlon or helanca) (equivalent to fingering weight yarn), hook nš2 (1.75 mm).
OR Sport Weight Thread (like Lustersheen) and B hook
DIRECTIONS: Bottom of Bikini
Front: Chain 24 (6.5cm = 2 5/8"). Work straight in dc for 16 rows (8 cm = 3 1/8 "), making 3 ch in the place of the first dc of each row. Then begin increasing at each side: in the beginning of 17th row, after the first 3 ch (=1 dc), make 1 dc more in the last stitch of the previous row; in the end, make 2 dc in the last stitch of the previous row. Continue increasing in the 18th row, but not in the 19th. Continue this way (2 increasing rows, 1 plain row) for 20 rows (total: 36 rows), getting 52 stitches at the end.
Back: Beginning at the other side of the base chain of the front, make 1 row of dc (24 st) and continue increasing 1 stitch at the beginning and another at the end of every row. If you prefer a tinier bottom, skip increasing 1 row for each 3 rows (as in the front). Make 36 rows, getting 94 stitches at the end.
Finishing: With a contrasting color, and beginning in the beginning chain of the front bottom, right side up, make 3 sc in each 2 rows of the side of the straight part (12 xc). *Skip one row and in the dc on the side of the next row make 5 dc; skip one row, in the dc of the next row make 1 sc*. Repeat from * to * . At the extremity make 4 dc, 84 ch, turn the work, in the 2nd stitch from the hook make 1 sc in each stitch until you're back at the 4 dc; make 3 dc more on the same point. *Skip 2 st, 5 dc in the same st, skip 3 st, 1 sc*. Continue this way until you reach the other extremity; repeat the same as in the previous extremity (4 dc, 84 ch, 1 row of sc, 3 dc). Make the other side symmetrically; in the straight part, repeat the sc of the beginning of this row; make the sides, the sc strings and the upper part of the back in the same way. If the number of stitches doesn't match exactly, don't worry: compensate skipping more or less stitches between the 5 dc groups. Little differences are imperceptible. End up with 1 slip stitch in the first sc of the row.
To put on the bottom, tie the strings at the sides of the body.
The bottom size can be easily adjusted. Just maintain the increasing pattern: in the front, 2 increasing rows, 1 plain row; in the back, all increasing rows. You can change the initial number of stitches to correct gauge and make the necessary number of rows to achieve the desired height. If you want a bigger front, you can increase in all rows, like in the back. Try to see how it looks. If after finished the slip isn't tight enough, you can interlace a thin elastic in the finishing stitches, fastening securely.
---Top of Bikini Rnd 1-6 for small with instructions for making the bikini top bigger
Note: The part of the top that covers each breast is made with three motifs crocheted together to make a kind of "pyramid."
Substitute ch 3 for dc at beg of rnds. Sl st to top of first st or chain to close each rnd.
Directions for First Motif: Begin with 4 ch, sl st to make a circle.
1st rnd: *In circle make 3 dc, ch 2. Repeat from * 2 more times. Work 3 more dc in circle. Ch 1, hdc in top of first dc to close.
2nd rnd: Work 4 dcs in arch just made from hdc. *Sk dc, 1 sc in next dc. Sk next dc. Work 7 dc in the next ch-2 arch. Repeat from * two more times. Sk dc, 1 sc in next st. 3 dc in the last arch. Sl st to join.
3rd rnd: Work 4 dcs in joining. *Skip 1 dc, 1 sc in next st, ch 3, skip 3 st, 1 sc in next st. Skip 1 st, 7 dc in the next stitch. Repeat from * two more times. Skip 1 dc, make 1 sc in next st. ch 3 , skip 3 st, 1 sc in next st. skip 1 st. Make 3 dcs in the same stitch where you made the first double crochets in the beginning of the rnd. Join with sc in first dc.
4th rnd: *Work ch 3, skip 1 st, 1 sc in next st. Skip 2 sts. 7 dc in the 3-ch arch. Sk next st and make dc in next st. Ch 3, skip 1 st, make 1 sc in next st. Repeat from * three more times, replacing the last sc with a sl st to join.
5th rnd Slip stitch to 3 ch arch. Make 6 dc in the arch. *Skip the first dc of 7-dc group from previous rnd. Make sc in each of next 5 sts. Skip the last dc of 7-dc group. Make 6 dc in the next 3 ch arch. Ch 1, 6 dc in the next arch. Repeat from * two more times. Skip the first dc of the next 7-dc group. Make sc in each of next 5 sts. Skip the last dc of 7-dc group. Make 6 dc in the next arch. Ch 1, sl st to join.
6th rnd: Make Dc in each dc and sc st until you reach the ch-1 arch. In ch-1 arch, make 2dc, ch 1, 2dc. Continue in established patterns. End with sl st to top of first st to join. Fasten off.
-----To make the top bigger--Designer's Notes
Option 1: If you need to increase the top, make more dc rows around the squares, always making *2dc, 1ch, 2dc* at the corners. You can increase the neck strings and the chest string too. --Desiger
Option 2: Here's another way to make the top bigger--Editor's note:
Rather than add more rounds of rnd 6 to make the top bigger by increasing the border, I wanted to continue with more of the Beatriz's nice design first. Here's what I did for a top size 34" to 36"
For Second Motif: Make the second square the same way, but don't cut the yarn; put together the two squares, bringing wrong sides together, and make a sc or stitch to join them along one side.. Make the third square and unite it the same way with the right side square of the previously joined strip of 2 squares (left side square if you are a leftie). Going on with the sc row, join the third square to the square on the left (on the right, if you are a leftie). End up.
Make the second cup/pyramid similarly.
Finishing: With contrasting color, make a dc row along one side of one of the triangles (this will be the base of the triangle). After the last dc in the last arch of the base, make 2 slip stitches along the side of the dc to get to its base and work along the side of the triangle, in the following way: *skip 2 st, 5 dc in the same st (shell) skip 2 st, 1 sc* until next angle; in the ch arch of the angle make 1 sc, 144 ch, go back with 144 sc, 1 sc; continue along the other side of the triangle repeating from * to *. Do the same in the other bow.
Note: When I made the small size, I had 7 shells on each side. (ssg)
Make a chain of 250 stitches, turn and make a sc row. Weave this string across the dc of the base of the two bows. Tie this around the chest and the strings of the top of the triangles behind the neck.
If you need to increase the top, make more dc rows around the squares, always making *2dc, 1ch, 2dc* at the corners. You can increase the neck strings and the chest string too.
NOTE:
This is an original design by Beatriz Medina and is posted at the CP
Pattern Library with permission.
Please direct reprint requests to designer at beatriz@centroin.com.br. (The designer's address was valid when this pattern was posted. If it is no longer valid, please check one of the internet search engines for an updated address.
CPpat120.html
Bikini
top tested & edited by Shirley Guess
Crochet Partners's Web site is Supported and Maintained by Volunteers.
Back to CP's Pattern Index ||| CP'S Site Map (Text Only)"||| CP's Home Page
Site Design & Content
Editor: Shefog
Designs, web
master.
Crochet Partners Web Site, S. Guess (c)
1995-98